City of God

The favelas of Rio are owned by drugs.

While the hard and fast living drug dealers and the 'owner' of the favela live at the top of the hill looking down over their territory of 300 000 people in slum like conditions, their workers are at the bottom with guns, walkie talkies and fireworks, watching every entrant to their territory, ready to warn of trouble from the police or rival gangs. 'Soldiers' patrol the streets ready to be in the front line of fire.

And fire there is. As we toured the favela under the watchful eye of a guide we saw the bullet holes in the walls and passed watchers sitting in prime positions eying us carefully.

It's a dangerous place to be.

The living conditions are horrendous. There are no laws when it comes to building houses...pick a spot, any spot, and build a house. If you want to build on top of someone else, no worries - just buy their roof for 2000 realis and chuck a few bricks on top. Small rooms hold whole families....many of whom have more than 7 children and daughters who start having their own families at 13 years old. It is obvious to see the reason for the landslides which kill thousands each year - house foundations are an afterthought.

The children are smily and friendly. They know three words that we understand - gringo, money and photo. 'So many gringos' they said to our guide as we passed by - but they love that we come. It means that we are interested in where they live and they are proud. They want the world to know that, even through their favelas have terrible reputations they are not all bad people.

'money' they say - holding out dirty palms. But we have been asked not to give them any. The community workers who work in the favelas are trying to teach the kids that if they want money they have to do something for it - so as not to encourage a lifestyle of begging.

'photo, photo' they say as we walk around their streets with our fancy cameras. If they are in our photos, they believe the will be famous...with other gringos seeing them in other countries....fame, to them, is the ultimate 'get out of jail free' card. An easy and quick way to get out of the favela without having to study. If asked what they want to be when they grow up many will say 'singer', 'actor' or...'drug dealer'.

They live hard and fast and die young here. The current owner of the favela is 23. He took over from his predecessor who was shot by police and died at age 21. Even if they are not shot they are living in highly unsanitary conditions though the government is starting to come in now and sort out some of those issues, and NGOs send in health workers and educators.

Most of the residents of the favelas have jobs outside, in the city, as hotel cleaners, construction workers or those annoying people selling touristy umbrellas on the beach. They are trying to make a living to get out of the favela and make something of themselves....but this is the only life they know, and, though it's far from ideal, it is a life with family and friends and a certain amount of protection.

A facinating and eye-opening place to visit...this 'City of God'...

till next time...